Post by The March Hare on Feb 18, 2006 9:14:01 GMT 1
KALKAN
A small peaceful Mediterranean resort and fishing town on the beautiful Turquoise Coast of Turkey, Kalkan has not been touched by mass tourism. More sophisticated than the usual resort town, Kalkan appeals to travelers looking for more than a "sun and sea" holiday.
Because of its great charm, Kalkan has a growing number of perennial visitors who say the town is the only holiday destination they would choose to visit repeatedly. There is simply no other town quite like Kalkan along Turkey's coast
Kalkan curls snuggly around an ancient harbour sheltered at the foot of the towering Taurus Mountains. The town overlooks a beautiful bay in which islands seem to magically float upon the shimmering sea. Narrow streets twist down to the harbour through the historic town and are lined with listed whitewashed villas with shuttered windows situated alongside small local specialty shops and restaurants. Overhead hang original ornately carved Ottoman timber balconies garlanded with brilliantly coloured bougainvillea cascading to the streets below. It is a very special place.
Why Kalkan is so special
Not only is Kalkan beautiful, but unlike other Turkish coastal resort towns Kalkan's main economy is tourism and therefore its citizens put much pride and effort into the town's historic preservation. Because of this, Kalkan has retained the texture of its history with its distinctive Greek architecture (it was once a Greek and Turkish fishing village). Very strict building codes keep the town small and architecturally blended with the historic heart of the town known as "Old Kalkan".
Besides the famous "Kalkan Style" historic architecture, the many excellent restaurants of Kalkan contribute to the special atmosphere within Kalkan. Good dining has always been the way of life in Kalkan and continues today. In fact, Kalkan is said to have the highest number of restaurants and bars per inhabitant or square meter on the Turkish coast. Additionally, Kalkan is especially renowned in Turkey for its numerous roof-top terrace restaurants and bars which offer a wonderful view of the town, sea and stars. You can also sit at one of the many fine harbour-side restaurants and watch the fishermen leave early in the morning as you eat breakfast, or see them return with the day's catch in the evening.
Kalkan is a small town (of only a few thousand) and this creates a wonderful intimate feeling. But don't let its size mislead you - there is plenty to do in and around Kalkan. During the day the town is surprisingly empty as most guests choose to swim or explore the multitude of beautiful ancient Lycian and natural sites of the area. However, everything changes in the evening when Kalkan bursts alive for a long, festive night.
Kalkan has many special qualities, but without a doubt it is the people of Kalkan who make the town extra-special.
The people of Kalkan happily welcome you, and you may at first be surprised by the universal friendliness within the town. It is absolutely genuine. Warm Turkish hospitality and friendliness is the basis of life here and the people of Kalkan sincerely enjoy getting to know their guests. So don't hesitate to accept one of the many tulip-shaped glasses of çay (tea) you will be offered while you amble along Kalkan's winding streets. You won't be hassled while you are a guest of Kalkan - the town is hassle-free and is proud to be so. You will find a mixed population here, consisting mainly of locals, some Istanbul Turks who own businesses, as well as a small number of
well-educated foreigners who have settled in the town.
Kalkan's History and Architecture
Kalkan has been a place of settlement since antiquity with the important location as the only safe harbour between Kas and Fethiye. Kalkan was a very important port during the 19th century - even more so than Fethiye or Antalya, its two larger neighbors.
The Kalkan you see today was settled 150 to 200 years ago by people of both Greek and Turkish origin subject to the Ottoman Empire. Camels brought goods to Kalkan from the nearby Xanthos valley and from as far away as the mountain highlands near Elmali. Cargo ships were then loaded in Kalkan's harbour to sail for the far reaches of the Ottoman Empire carrying charcoal, silk (you can see many mulberry trees in Kalkan today), olive oil (still produced in Kalkan) and wine, as well as cotton, grain, sesame seed, flour, grapes, acorns used for dye, and lumber from the vast cedar and pine forests.
By the early 20th century Kalkan had become quite a sizeable village. At the turn of the century it had its own custom’s house and in 1915 there were reportedly seventeen restaurants, a goldsmith, a shoemaker and several tailors. The first local elections were held in 1928 and in 1937 the present elementary school was opened.
Following World War I, the exchange in population between the new Turkish Republic and Greece took place in 1921 during the Turkish War of Independence. Most of the Greek origin people then living in Kalkan left Turkey (some going to the nearby Greek island of Meis), but trading continued until it faded away in the 1950’s due to the improvement of the Turkish road system and the adoption of overland transport.
With no more sea trade, the population of Kalkan trickled away as people moved to larger coastal cities to find work. Luckily, Kalkan was saved by the arrival of wealthy English yachtsmen in the 1960's and tourism eventually became the main economy of Kalkan. Because of this, Kalkan has retained its historic charm. Strict building and preservation codes are enforced and many of Kalkan's buildings are listed. Because of the determination to keep Kalkan beautiful, Kalkan has a specialness to it lacking in many other towns along the coast.
Despite the changes tourism has brought to the people of Kalkan, traditional life still continues for many of the local residents. Historically, many locals of Kalkan have owned land both in Kalkan and in the nearby mountain village of Bezirgan, set in a beautiful valley. Today many of these residents continue to follow the pattern of their ancestors, spending summers in the coolness of the mountains and winters near the warm coast.
Architecture
Kalkan's Greek origin can still be seen in its distinctive architecture which is very similar to the architecture of the nearby Greek island of Meis (Castellorizo). There is also a Greek Orthodox church by Kalkan's harbour which has been converted into a mosque.
As you walk about Old Kalkan you will notice much historic architecture. This architecture is very special, of the traditional 'Kalkan Style', and is well-preserved and protected.
Old Kalkan's houses line narrow streets winding up from the harbour and are quite beautiful, often covered in bougainvillea. They are characteristically built of stone with small shuttered windows and timber balconies, whitewashed walls and contrasting woodwork. and often have courtyards and gardens. Narrow passages criss-cross between the houses. To combat the heat of summer, houses were built for coolness. Balconies, terraces and courtyards were constructed to create cool, comfortable areas, while small windows could be tightly shuttered from the hot noon sun. Windows and balconies of the upper floors face the sea to take advantage of any breezes.
Old Kalkan buildings are usually two stories high, unless the road is very steep. In this case there is sometimes a mezzanine. Behind the pediment (the hallmark of the traditional Kalkan house) is the red-tiled roof and chimneypot. Ground floors are usually used as shops or for storage while residents live on the floors above.
The many decorative elements of old Kalkan’s architecture provide a link to the area’s ancient past. Such elements can be seen in the sills placed between the floor levels and the tops of windows and on the corners of buildings enhanced with pilasters and pseudo column capitals. Adorned pediments grace facades, and dentils and cornices decorate eves.
'An Historical Note'
Piri Reis, an admiral of the Ottoman Fleet in the 16th century is the author of Kitab-ý Bahriyye which is history’s first-known sea pilot’s book. Every Mediterranean port is accurately described and the charts are almost perfect, reflecting the author’s considerable knowledge of the Mediterranean, which partly belonged to his empire (the area stretching from Morocco to Venice).
In 1550, or thereabouts, Piri Reis produced charts of North and South America and here again he has achieved amazing accuracy. How he did it is one of history’s unsolved mysteries.
In Kitab-ý Bahriyye, there is a chapter about Kalkan Bay, wherein the author has described with pinpoint precision Kalkan’s fresh water supply, the supply which is mainstay of the village today. From him we also learn that the bay was also called ALIKI-KARA or ALKI-KAARA and that the western tip of the bay was named KALAMOÇ. Kalkan the Turkish name and Kalamaki, the Greek name may have been derived from these origins. At the time of writing, Piri Reis does not mention a settlement in the bay. (16th century)
'Climate'
Often compared with Southern California, Lycia has a typical Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and warm wet winters. The sea water temperature rarely drops below 16°C thus enabling swimmers to have an eight to nine month bathing season.
On a beautiful day in the middle of the winter it is a pleasure to walk on the hillsides overlooking the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean, basking in the sun and enjoying the perfume of thyme, laurel, and sage arising from the "maquis". On such a day it is not rare for the temperature to reach 20°-22°C. (70°F)
The hottest days of the hottest months are cooled down by the "Meltem" which is a breeze which blows every afternoon. Nevertheless, people who have problems coping with the heat are recommended to visit the region during the spring , early summer, or in the autumn.
This temperature climate is the reason for a non-stop agricultural season which keeps the farmers busy the whole year round with an average of 300 days of sun per year.
'History of Kalkan'
There is no specific data on when Kalkan was founded, but one of the legends which is most widely accepted is that a woman from the Island of Meis came with a boatload of goods which she tried to sell to the villagers around the Kalkan area. Her venture was successful and other tradesmen from Meis followed her example and actually moved to Kalkan about 150 to 200 years ago, thus making Kalkan a small trading coastal post. The original settlers were of both Greek and Turkish origin and were subjects of the Ottoman Empire. It is interesting to note that the architectural style of the Kalkan resembles that of the houses in Meis (Castellorizo), which incidentally until the early part of the twentieth century was considered to be the sponge capital of the world.
Very quickly, within a period of 25 years, Kalkan grew to its present size and became a successful community. The rapid growth of Kalkan can in all likelihood be attributed to the fact that Kalkan has the only hospitable harbor between Kaþ and Fethiye.
Once again, there is a legend attached to the question. During the mid-nineteenth century the area was plagued with bandits who frequently raided the small coastal settlements at night. At this particular time, there was an unfortunate farmer who lived on the outskirts of the village and it was his farm that was one of the marauder’s favorite targets. Using farm implements at hand the farmer improvised and defended his property with his home-made shield and weapons and became known locally as "The man with the shield" - "Kalkanlý".
Because of the mixed population, (Ottoman subjects of Greek and Turkish origin) people started to call the village "Kalamaki" and it is thought that this name was derived from the Greek word "kalamari (squid)" which were plentiful in the surrounding sea.
Also within its history Kalkan has been known as which is Turkish for port/quay/jetty.
The building that many consider to be the symbol of Kalkan, the Mosque standing above the harbor was formerly a Greek Orthodox Church. This lovely building was built in the later part of the nineteenth century and the ornamented church bell, dated 1897, mayw be seen in the foyer of the townhall.
Earlier I mentioned that Kalkan had been called Ýskele indicating a place where boats are loaded. During the late nineteenth century Kalkan reached its peak and actually became the most important trading port serving the Teke Peninsula. Kalkan was more important even than Fethiye or Antalya and produce was brought in from the highlands (as far away as Elmalý) and the Patara Plain. In those days it must have been quite a sight to see the cameleers driving their camels into Kalkan/Ýskele loaded high with goods which would be unloaded by burly porters at the quayside into small boats which would, in turn, off-load onto the ships anchored in the bay. These ships, laden with cargo, sailed to the Eastern Mediterranean, Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Cyprus, Rhodes and other destinations which were all part of the Ottoman Empire.
Not too long ago, I met an old fellow who had lived in Kalkan in 1915 and he told me that at that time there were seventeen restaurants in Kalkan where you could eat and drink, a goldsmith, shoemaker and several tailors. In fact, at the beginning of the twentieth century, Kalkan had its own custom’s house and in 1928, the first local elections were held. In 1937, the present elementary school was opened and it was one of the few elementary boarding schools in existence in Turkey at the time.
Also, it is often a surprise for people to learn that there was a thriving charcoal making industry throughout the area and especially in Kalkan. Another rather amazing product of the area was silk and as you walk around Kalkan today, you will spot several mulberry trees. In addition, to the exportation of charcoal and silk cocoons, you had bales of cotton, olive oil (again manufactured in Kalkan as it is today), grain, sesame seed, flour from the local mills, grapes, wine from the Kalkan winery, acorns used in dye fabrication as well as lumber from the cedar and pine forests.
Change initially started to take place during and after, especially after, World War I, when in 1921 the exchange of population took place between the young Turkish Republic and Greece. During that time a lot of Greek subjects left Kalkan but nevertheless active trading continued before fading away in 1950s. One of the major factors contributing to the decline of Kalkan was the vast improvement of the Turkish road system and in particular, the completion of the coastal road in 1960, which meant that goods could be moved from place to place by overland transport rather than sea. I always think of the late 1950s as signaling the end of the first phase of Kalkan’s economic growth.
During the 1960s, the local population of Kalkan slowly started to leave the village and because the people were essentially traders, they went to places like Ýzmir, Antalya and Fethiye, where they were able to establish themselves and conduct their business. At that time Kalkan became something of a ghost town, but it was also round about then that tourism began with the arrival of wealthy English yachtsmen. As early as 1956, Freya Stark was mentioning Kalkan in her book The Lycian Shore
Perhaps, within the context of tourism, it should be mentioned that since the early times the wealthy residents of Kalkan have departed to their summer homes in the mountain village of Bezirgan and transhumance still continues today.
Akýn Oension was the first pension to appear and was quickly followed by other early entrepreneurs like the famous former Turkish rock star Erkut Taçkýn (Pasha’s Inn and Lipsos) and Tiraje haným (Balýkçý Han and the Han).
Tourism in general was greatly enhanced in 1984 when the road connecting Kalkan with Fethiye was asphalted.
'Day & Night in Kalkan'
Kalkan is a prime location from which a great variety of tours can be organized. Kalkan itself is a very rewarding holiday spot.
Start your day with a lazy breakfast on the terrace of your hotel/pension or in once of the restaurants along the marina, watching the heavy traffic of boats moving in and out of the harbor. For your "day on the beach" Kalkan offers you a choice: A large public beach stretches along the front but you will probably discover your own favorite spot somewhere along the coast. The water will always be sparkling clean. You may also choose a very original Kalkan "day-spender" formula: the beach clubs. These are platform beaches accross the harbor, reached by frequent shuttle boat service from the marina. "The platforms" provide everything a holiday-maker can need or dream of, from a sophisticated tequila thingytail to beach mats. This formula is extremely popular among our visitors who will spend their holiday in one of these beach clubs. Every one has a favorite but all offer very good services. They are open all day long and even for dinne by candle light!
If your idea of a holiday is discovering a virgin sandy coast you may spend your day at Patara. Beachi one of the most beautiful beaches in Turkey. Frequent and efficient minibus service from the town square is very cheap. You will find basic restaurants for food and beverages as well as umbrellas, etc. Although much smaller the remarkable sandy beach of Kaputaþ, a few miles from Kalkan, is a wonder, do not miss it. Finally, you have yet another way to spend your day in liquid!
Several hotels offer excellent swimming pools open to the puclic.
After a hot day at the beach you may return to your hotel to prepare for the second part of your day, which often proves to be just as long if not longer than the first : 'Night life in Kalkan' . Your evening may strat by shopping and walkng around in the cool breeze typical at nightfall. All shops stay open until the early hours of the morning and often a silk carpet will be puchased just before returning to your hotel after a long and enjoyable evening.
Kalkan has certainly the highest number of restaurants and bars per inhibitant or per square metre on the Turkish coast. Almost every pension or hotel has its roof or terrace-bar serving all kinds of ,nternational drinks or thingytails. After a 'Sundowner' you will find a table in one of the 40 or so restaurants of Kalkan. It would be wise to make a reservation for a front row table. Most of the restaurants offer an open buffet with a great choice of starters (meze) followed by fish or grilled meat Turkish style. For more conservative paletes, international cousine is also available. Prices are displayed at the entrance except for fish, which is subject to bargaining. The Turkish way of dining is to begin with a selection from ten or more cold straters plus two or three hot ones which will be followed by a main course (accompained by raki, wine or beer) and ending with fruit or dessert and famous Tukish coffee. The meal usually stretches for hours and will finish close to midnight. Finally you may walk through the animated cobbled streets and stop to sip a 'last one' before returning to your hotel after a lovely long day.
