Izmir

[The March Hare]

ÝZMÝR

Area : 11.973 km²

Population : 2.694.770 (1990)

Traffic Code : 35

Ýzmir is the third biggest city in Turkey with a population of around 2.5 million, the second biggest port after Istanbul, and a good transport hub. Once the ancient city of Smyrna, it is now a modern, developed, and busy commercial centre, set around a huge bay and surrounded by mountains and was. The broad boulevards, glass-fronted buildings and modern shopping centres are dotted with traditional red-tiled roofs, the 18th century market, and old mosques and churches, although the city has an atmosphere more of Mediterranean Europe than traditional Turkey.

The climate is comfortable, with a relatively mild summer due to the refreshing breeze from the Aegean. The long attractive palm-fringed promenade, Birince Kordon, which stretches the entire length of the city up to the Alsancak Ferry Terminal, is a popular spot for evening walks, and there are many cafes along the waterfront. Izmir has a good selection of culture and entertainment, from the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museums, to the Izmir State Opera and Ballet and Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, to the many bars and clubs. The cosmopolitan and lively city gets even busier during the International Izmir Festival (mid-June to mid-July) with music and dance, with performances also in nearby Cesme and Ephesus.

Districts : Balcova, Cigli, Gaziemir, Karsiyaka, Konak, Aliaga, Bayindir, Bergama, Beydag, Bornova, Buca, Cesme, Dikili, Foca, Karaburun, Kemalpasa, Kinik, Kiraz, Menderes, Menemen, Narlibahce, Odemis, Seferihisar, Selcuk, Tire, Turbalý and Urla.

Aliaða: Aliaða, which is 60 km. north of Ýzmir, have signes of Ýzmir and Bergama civilizations. 4 of the 12 cities, composing the biggest and most important ones among Aiol cities, whose number is exceeding 30 at Aegean coasts, are within Aigaia, Kyme, Myrna and Gryneion province territories.

Dikili: Dikili is a pretty province and popular summer resort, around 120km north of Izmir. Candarli is nearby, and the area is full of natural beauty as well as historical interest. There is a crater lake in Medivenli village, and pine groves and ancient caverns in Demirtas and Delitas. The area is also famous for its hot springs, which can be found in Nebiler, Bademli and Kocaoba villages. The port at Dikili is large enough for three passenger ships, and is a good transport connection.

Seferihisar: Teos antic city at Sýðacýk region, Karaköse ruins at Doðanbey - Gerenalaný region, former settlement area constructed within castle and castle, constructed by Ottomans at Sýðacýk, monumental structures of Seljukian and Ottoman period at province center of the province, whose settlement history reaches till 1000 B. C., are composing the archeological and historical source potential of the region. Seferihisar has beautiful beaches and bays with its 27 km. Coastal band.

Menderes: Menderes province, which draws attention with its satsuma, beautiful bays and historical values, is 20 km. away from Ýzmir. Lebedos Antic City is at west of province at Ürkmez region. Ruins of Kolophon, Klaros, Notion and Lebedos Antic Cities, which are on Menderes - Seljukian road as adjacent to each other, are composing the important archeological sources of the province. Gümüldür borough is the producer region of Satsuma, which is a world famous kind of tangerine. Özdere is one of the nine big tourism regions of Aegean Region, and it is a tourism borough where amateur fishermen can fish besides its clear sea and coast. Various colored and shaped beads which are produced in natives at Görece Village of Menderes, are drawing attention of national and international tourists.

Karaburun: Karaburun is at the northern point of the Urla Peninsula, and its northern and western coasts have beautiful bays surrounding the Izmir bay. There were settlements in this area which date back to the Stone Age, and excavations have indicated it was a developed cultural centre during the Hittite period, then a trading centre during the Aiol, Lydia and Roman civilisations. It is now the newest suburb of Izmir, and has a couple of small guest houses and fish restaurants. Its most dramatic feature is the setting, with villages and orchards clinging to the steep rock face. There is a bus service in the area, although private vehicles offer more possibilities for exploring.

Urla: Urla is in the middle of the peninsula and holds all the characteristics of the Aegean. It lies 38km west of Izmir and used to be a cultural centre with remains unearthed dating back to the Hitties. It was originally the site of the Ionian city of Clazomenae, with probably the oldest regularly used port in the world. Pieces of art and sculpture found during excavations are now exhibited in the Louvre, Athens National Museum and Izmir Archaeology Museum.

Torbalý: An ancient Ionian city, famous for its wines and religious centre, has three marble alters devoted to the Roman Emperor August and his foster child Germanikys, in an ancient theatre which dominates the valley. Pieces of art found during excavations are exhibited in Izmir and Ephesus museums. The town has the remains of an old port and a few holiday complexes, and is set attractively against a pine forest.

Ödemiþ: North of Odemis, which is 113km southeast of Izmir, are the ruins of Hypaiapa. The historical importance of the region began with Birgi, west of Odemis, which was the capital during the Aydinogullari period and contained outstanding examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Birgi has been on the World Cultural Heritage list since 1994, and points of interest here include Cakiraga Mansion, Imam-i Birgivi Medrese and Sultan Sah Mausoleum.

Tire: One of the largest towns in the area, Tire is 82km southeast of Izmir and lies at the foot of the Aydin Mountains. Its long cultural heritage includes periods under the Hittites, Frygians, Lydians, Persians, Romans and Byzantines, and developed its strong links with the economy during the Ottoman period. The town has an attractive old quarter with many impressive examples of Islamic architecture, and a lively Tuesday market influenced by the gypsy population in the surrounding villages.

Kemalpaþa: The historical background of Kemalpasa, which lies 29km west of Izmir, dates back to 1300 BC. It was host to the Akkads, Hitties, Seljuk and Ottoman civilisations, and was a resort between the Art and Ion cities during Roman and Byzantine times. The only remains from the Hittites in the Aegean region is the Karabel relief, which is in the province. Previously known in ancient times as Nymphaion, the town lies at the foot of Nif mountain at 200m altitude, and is best known for its cherries and pine forests.

WHERE TO VISIT

Kemeraltý Bazaar : The huge bazaar in the city centre stretches from the coast road to the Konak area, and is a major shopping centre with a vast array of goods inside. It combines modern businesses, shops and cafes, with antiques, dried fruit, household and leather goods in old alleyways with vaults and domes.

Inside the bazaar is one of the most interesting structures of Izmir: Kizlaragasi Hani is an Ottoman caravanserai inside the Halim Aga Bazaar and was completed in 1745. This covered market sells hand-made products, carpets, leather and souvenirs. There are many entrances to the markets, from Basmane, Konak and Anafartalar. Konak is one of the oldest areas of the city, with most of the buildings that survived the great fire, although the traditional areas are gradually being modernised. This is the location of the city’s landmark, the Saat Kulesi (Ottoman clock tower) decorated with tiles.

Asansör (Elevator) : The elevator was constructed by Jewish businessman Nesim Levi in 1907, in order to make life easier for the local residents going to their mansions on top of the hill. These days tourists use it to admire the views of the old streets and houses of Mithatpasa. Located in the heart of Izmir’s old Jewish quarter, it is housed in a 50m-high brick tower and after refurbishment in 1992 it now contains a café on the top floor, and the original hydraulics are exhibited on the ground floor. In its heyday in the 1930s, it also contained a theatre, cinema, refreshment stall and photographer’s shop.

Kültürpark : The huge Kulturpark in the city centre is one of the densest green areas in Izmir, covering 30 hectares. Within it are a zoo, artificial lake, parachute tower, open-air theatre and a collection of bars and cafes. This has been the venue of the International Izmir Fair every August since 1936.

Botanic Garden : Within the grounds of Ege University are the Botanical Gardens, one of the best in the country. There are around 3000 species of plants from the tropical regions to the Alps, many of which are kept under artificial conditions. The arboretum has hundreds of species of trees and bushes, and the herbarium centre contains dried plant samples that are preserved for the use of scientific research.

MUSEUM, ANCIENT CITIES

Ýzmir Archeology Museum : This was one of the first museums to be established in Western Anatolia, and has exhibits unearthed from excavations in the Izmir region. In addition to Greek and Roman remains, friezes, ancient terracotta, Lycian sarcophagi, and Bronze age pottery, there is also art from the Ion, Greek, Roman and Byzantine periods. The entire collection is spread over three floors and a garden floor.

Museum Tel : [phone]
Address: Bahri Baba Parký Konak
Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.

Ethnography Museum : Opposite the Archaeological Museum, the Ethnographic Museum building was constructed on an inclined terrace in the early 19th century, in a Neoclassical style. It used to be St Roch’s Hospital for treating patients with the plague, was repaired by the French in 1845 and then became a centre for an organisation caring for poor Christian families. It was restored between 1985 and 1988, and then re-opened as the museum.

Inside, the colourful displays reveal local crafts, homes and folk culture from the 19th century. These include a reconstruction of the first Ottoman pharmacist in the area, and part of a traditional house, bridal chamber and kitchen. There are explanations and displays relating to camel wrestling, pottery production and even a kiln to make the blue beads to ward off the evil eye.

Museum Tel : [phone]
Address: Bahri Baba Parký - Konak
Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.

Ýzmir Atatürk Museum : This building, on the huge waterfront street Birinci Kordon, was constructed as a residence between 1875 and 1880. Ataturk stayed here whilst participating in the Izmir Economic Congress on 17th February 1923, and the building was presented to him as a gift in 1926 and then opened to the public as a museum after his death. The mansion contains furnishings and ornaments from Ataturk’s era. Museum

Tel: [phone]
Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.

Ödemiþ Archeology Museum : There are exhibition halls, administrative departments, library, warehouses, photography hall, atölye and laboratory room. 12.000 years of age pieces of art coming from Prehistoric Age are exhibiting in the Museum, opened on 1987.

Museum Tel: (+ 90 - 232) 545 11 84
Address: Ödemiþ
Open hours to visit: 08.30 - 12.00 / 13.00 - 17.00 Open days to visit: Everyday except Monday

Tire Museum : In the museum composed of an archeological and ethnographic hall 3592 pieces of archeological pieces of art, 3080 ethnographic pieces of art, 21980 coins, 78 pieces of archive documents, 16 pieces of manuscripts and other pieces of art.

Museum Tel: (+ 90 - 232) 512 18 62
Address: Cumhuriyet Mah. Þanizade Meydaný
Open hours to visit: 08.30 - 12.00 13.00 - 17.00 Open days to visit: Everyday except Monday

Bayraklý (Former Ýzmir) : Located at the northeast of Izmir Bay, Bayrakli was the first known settlement of Izmir, which archaeological excavations indicate was probably around 3000 BC. There is a structure from the 7th century BC, situated on the upper part of Bayrakli, which was the grave of the mythological king, Tantalus.

Kadifekale (Velvet Castle) : The old fortress on the hill at the southeast of the city offers unrivalled views of the surrounding area, and at its best at sunset, when the lights start to come on and the call to prayer echoes from many mosques. It was founded in the 4th century BC by Lysimakhos, one of Alexander the Great’s generals, and was strategically placed in view of the harbour and the city. It is possible to walk up to the citadel from the Agora, through narrow streets and old houses, and it remains open although is not lit at night. On the walls of the ruins are Roman and Byzantine engravings and the remaining structures include the south walls and five towers at the west, which date back to the Medieval Age.

Agora : Within the crowded streets of Konak, the agora used to be the venue for political gatherings and elections. It was built on the orders of Alexander the Great, probably in the 2nd century BC, and is the only surviving pre-Ottoman monument, although what remains was the reconstruction by the Romans after a devastating earthquake. There are 14 Corinthian columns, vaulted chambers and hundreds of Ottoman graveyards in the eastern section. Many treasures unearthed during excavations are now exhibited in the Archaeology Museum.

MOSQUE, CHURCH AND SYNAGOGUES

The most important mosques in the city are Hisar, Yali (Konak), Salepcioglu and Kestane Pazari Mosque. Others in the city include Sadirvan, Basdurak, Kemeralti (built in1812), Faik Pasa, (repaired in 1842), Han Bey, Hatuniye Mosque, Seyh, Fettah, Yali, Ali Aga, Selvili Mescit, Abdullah Efendi and Iki Cesmelik Mosque.

St. Polycarp Church, in Gaziosmanpasa, is the oldest church in Izmir and was lavishly rebuilt in the 19th century by the French. St Polycarp was Smyrna’s first bishop, and when he refused to follow the orders of the Romans to renounce his faith, he was burnt at the stake.

BEACHES

The province of Izmir has a huge coastline on the Aegean, with beaches and areas for watersports easily accessible from the city by private or public transport from Uckuyular bus station. Good beaches include Pamucak, Urla, Gulbahce, Cesme, Altinkum, Foca and Dikili.

YACHT PORTS

The area south of the Cesme peninsula is a significant part of the yachting routes, and the area between Cesme and Kusadasi is especially popular. Just south of Cesme is Alacati Harbour, which can accommodate 80 yachts and has many facilities. Urla Harbour can accommodate 20 boats with another 175 in the fisherman’s shelter, and 80 in Ozbekkoy harbour.

TERMAL SPRINGS

Balçova Thermal Springs : Mentioned in Homer’s epics as Agamemnon Thermal Springs, and in the writings of geographer Strabon, these waters have been used to cure various ailments. Members of Alexander the Great’s army used the spring to heal their wounds, which made their healing powers famous. The hot water mud baths and mineral springs, which contain sodium bicarbonate and chloride, are said to cure upper respiratory inflammation, nephritis, rheumatism, skin diseases and metabolism problems. The resort is 10km west of Izmir, and there is accommodation available at the resort.

Bayýndýr Hot Springs : The group of thermal springs 8 km north of Bayýndýr and around 60km southeast of Izmir, comprises of Derekoy and Ergendi springs, both of which are roughly 40ºC. The waters contain sulphur and sodium bicarbonate, and are said to heal rheumatism and skin diseases.

Menemen Hot Springs : The hot springs around Menemen, a few kilometres northwest of Izmir, are actually bubbling inside a cavern. The rocks have ancient engravings, and the remains of the spring have formed a natural bath with waters said to heal broken bones and poor blood circulation.

Ilýcagöl Hot Spring : Northwest of Menemen is a lake fed by hot springs, and mud baths with the warm sulphur water are said to heal rheumatism, skin diseases, and problems affecting the urethra.

Dikili Hot Spring : The hot spring at Nebiler is 4km west of the Dikili-Ayvalik road, and contains hydro-acetate ions.

Tavþan Adasý Hot Spring : The springs are 15 km southwest of Tire and around 100km southeast of Izmir, near the village of Uzgur. The hot waters of this resort are used for bathing - good for rheumatism, skin diseases and gynaecological disorders, and drinking - lung and nutrient metabolic irregularities.

ART, CULTURE AND AMUSEMENT

For many years Izmir has enjoyed its reputation as a cosmopolitan city of culture. The Ataturk Cultural Centre hosts weekend concerts by the Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, and the Izmir State Opera and Ballet perform in an Ottoman art deco building on Milli Kutuphane Caddesi. During the summer there are events at the open-air theatre in the Kulturpark, and mid-June sees the month-long International Izmir festival with many events also in Cesme and Selcuk. The International Film Festival takes place every April, with foreign films shown in original language with subtitles.

Regular nightlife includes a host of bars and nightclubs in the wealthy suburb of Alsansak, with more venues on Birinci Kordon and the surrounding streets. The cinemas around the city centre tend to show blockbuster American films, many of which are dubbed into Turkish.

GEOGRAPHY

With characteristics quite typical of a Mediterranean climate, the summers are hot and dry with an average temperature of 28°C in July and August, and winters cool and rainy at around 10°C.. Because of its location, the city tends to be a little cooler that the rest of the region, and the average water temperature varies between 11°C (January) to 26°C (August).

HISTORY

The history of Izmir stretches back to around 3000 BC when the Trojans founded the city in Tepekule in the northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the birthplace of Homer, who was thought to have lived here around the 8th century BC. The Aeolians, the first settlers, were eventually taken over by the Ionians, and then the Lydians destroyed the city around 600BC before a brief recovery following Alexander the Great’s arrival in 334 BC.

After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes and re-established Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later reconstructed and became a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving and sophisticated city and a huge trading centre, despite its frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with Greek Orthodox, Jews and Muslims, and many languages were spoken amongst locals and visiting traders.

Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, Greece was granted a mandate over Izmir and entered the area, coming against the resistance of Ataturk’s nationalists. This resulted in a 3-day bloody battle, during which 70% of the city was burned to the ground and thousands were killed, and the beaten Greeks eventually left on the waiting ships. Ataturk formally took Izmir on 9 September 1922, considered to be the day of victory in the War of Independence and is a national holiday.

WHERE TO EAT

Izmir’s cuisine has largely been affected by its multicultural history, hence the large variety of food originating from the Aegean, Mediterranean and Anatolian regions. Another factor is the large area of land surrounding the region which grows a rich selection of vegetables. Some of the common dishes found here are tarhana soup (made from dried yoghurt and tomatoes), Izmir meatballs, keskek (boiled wheat with meat) zerde (sweetened rice with saffron) and mucver (made from squash and eggs).

WHAT TO BUY

The busiest shopping area is the Kemeralti Streets, which still retain a 19th century atmosphere of pull-down shutters, thresholds of the doors, low ceilings and old briquettes. On both sides of Anafartalar Caddesi is the lively atmosphere of the street vendors, bronze workers and fishermen, and Fevzipasa Bulvari which is famous for its leather garments. In contrast to the traditional and busy old market, Alsacak has modern boutiques and Cankaya has a huge shopping centre much.

DON'T LEAVE WITHOUT

- Visiting Birgi Cakiraga Mansion, Kýzlaraðasý Han, and Asansör,

- Stepping into the past in Izmir Archaeology Museum, Ataturk Museum, Kordonboyu and Kemeralti Bazaar.

- Tasting Izmir’s famous meatballs in the Asansor Restaurant.

- Buying tasty local dried figs and sultanas

- Shopping for Ödemis Silk (Pembizar), hand-painted handkerchiefs and Görece blue beads,

- Visiting the International Izmir Festival.

[The March Hare]

[The March Hare]

[The March Hare]

[The March Hare]

[The March Hare]

[The March Hare]

[The March Hare]