Garden Tips

[jj]

Gardening Basics

Weeds

Weeds are typically plants that are growing in the wrong place, rather than spraying them, you may want to dig them up and replant them in a different area of the garden. For example any grass growing in the border I pull up and plant in a hole in the lawn where I've dug up a dandelion.

Weeds need to be removed as they compete with plants for moisture, light and food.

Don't put weeds that have gone to seed on the compost heap, burn them or put them in the bin. The seeds may survive the hot temperatures in a compost heap and germinate when the compost is used in the garden.

Weed killers fall into three categories.

Systemic

The chemicals are absorbed through the leaves of weeds, killing the plant as it travels though to the roots.

Contact

Chemical kills the leaves and stems of weeds on contact.

Residual

Forms a waxy coating over the leaves and stems, preventing photosynthesis.

Methods of applying chemical weed killers:

Spraying - Quite a few weed killers are available pre-mixed. For those that need diluting, follow the guidelines on the packet. Adding extra concentrate doesn't kill the plant any quicker, it means that you will have to buy more, sooner. Only mix up the amount that you are likely to need, any excess is unlikely to be effective when you come to use it again. Use a separate spray bottle for weed killers and for misting plants and clearly label the weed killer spray bottle. I've got two spray bottles from Hozelock, I don't know if it is a design feature by Hozelock, but one has a red top and the other green.
To prevent spray over, cover nearby plants and only spray on calm, still days. To make the spraying as effective as possible try to apply when rain isn't forecast for a couple of days.

Application by hand - For those really stubborn weeds put on a marigold glove, then a fabric glove and dip your hand in the systemic weed killer. Grasp the bottom of the weed and draw your hand up the plant crushing the leaves as you go. This makes the weed take up the chemicals more readily.

Other methods of weed control include:

Hand weeding - most effective, very accurate, but hard work.

Hoeing - cutting the leaves and stems of weeds at ground level, preventing photosynthesis and making them weak so that they die, accurate but needs doing regularly.

Burning with blow torch - the high temperature kills the whole plant, not very accurate and can be expensive if a large area has to be cleared.

Chemical treatment - very effective, can be harmful to the environment, other neighbouring plants and poisonous to animals and children. Care must be taken when disposing of the weeds.

[The March Hare]

Before you go out gardening lightly scrape your fingernails over the soap end. This will prevent dirt from getting under your nails and what little does, it is easily washed away when you wash your hands.

[jj]

JOBS FOR MAY IN THE GARDEN


LAWN

• Edge lawn fortnightly (i.e. every two weeks), using long handled shears.

• Sow grass seed on newly prepared lawns.

• Mow when necessary, gradually bringing the height of cut lower.

• Best month for using a selective weed killer or lawn sand.

• Brush or rake to lift coarse grasses before mowing.


GARDEN

• Weed control by hoeing and spraying etc.

• Control slugs and snails.

• Mulch heathers.

• Encourage bushy growth on fuchsias by nipping out tips.

• Trim conifers and evergreen hedges.

• Put in supports for tall herbaceous perennials.

• Pinch out side shoots and tendrils from cordon grown sweet peas.

• Lift spring bedding and prepare for planting summer bedding. Bulbs can be used elsewhere

• Harden off bedding plants protect from frost.

• Plant up hanging baskets.

• Shade greenhouse structures.

• Prune Kerria, Forsythia and flowering currants

• Plant out Dahlia tubers in prepared plots

• Sow hardy annuals in situ

• Deadhead flowers of finished Rhododendron

• Spray roses for Black spot, mildew, aphids etc.

[The March Hare]

MAY



FRUIT



· Untie and retrain branches of wall-trained figs that have been bundled together for protection, prune as necessary..



· Pick protected strawberries and gooseberry thinnings.



· Open one side of fruit cage to allow entry for pollinating insects.



· Protect blossoms from frosts.



· Mow grass around trees.



· Water well after flowering plants especially stone fruits.



· Ring bark over vigorous apple and pear trees.



· De-blossom newly planted trees.



· Late May remove the polythene cover from wall-trained peaches and nectarines



· Remove unwanted shoots from raspberries.



· Thin gooseberries in late may if large fruits required.



· Never use insecticides during flowering, may kill pollinating insects.



· Continue control against pear scab.



· Start netting all fruit at the first sign of ripening.



· Look to spraying against P+D.



· Put straw around strawberries. Deter slugs use slug pellets. Minimize risk of bird damage use netting.





VEGETABLES



· Plant out Brussel Sprouts, summer and winter cabbage.



· Sow in pots sweet corn, runner beans, French beans, for planting out in June.



· Sow cucumber, marrow, and melons in gentle heat.



· Sow short rows of lettuce fortnightly.



· Transplant pencil thick leeks into final position.



· Control slugs and snails.








LAWN



· Edge lawn fortnightly (i.e. every two weeks), using long handled shears.



· Sow grass seed on newly prepared lawns.



· Mow when necessary, gradually bringing the height of cut lower.



· Best month for using a selective weed killer or lawn sand.



· Brush or rake to lift coarse grasses before mowing.





GARDEN



· Weed control by hoeing and spraying etc.



· Control slugs and snails.



· Mulch heathers.



· Encourage bushy growth on fuchsias by nipping out tips.



· Trim conifers and evergreen hedges.



· Put in supports for tall herbaceous perennials.



· Pinch out side shoots and tendrils from cordon grown sweet peas.



· Lift spring bedding and prepare for planting summer bedding. Bulbs can be used elsewhere



· Harden off bedding plants protect from frost.



· Plant up hanging baskets.



· Shade greenhouse structures.



· Prune Kerria, Forsythia and flowering currants



· Plant out Dahlia tubers in prepared plots



· Sow hardy annuals in situ



· Deadhead flowers of finished Rhododendron



· Spray roses for Black spot, mildew, aphids etc.

[The March Hare]

MAY



FRUIT



· Untie and retrain branches of wall-trained figs that have been bundled together for protection, prune as necessary..



· Pick protected strawberries and gooseberry thinnings.



· Open one side of fruit cage to allow entry for pollinating insects.



· Protect blossoms from frosts.



· Mow grass around trees.



· Water well after flowering plants especially stone fruits.



· Ring bark over vigorous apple and pear trees.



· De-blossom newly planted trees.



· Late May remove the polythene cover from wall-trained peaches and nectarines



· Remove unwanted shoots from raspberries.



· Thin gooseberries in late may if large fruits required.



· Never use insecticides during flowering, may kill pollinating insects.



· Continue control against pear scab.



· Start netting all fruit at the first sign of ripening.



· Look to spraying against P+D.



· Put straw around strawberries. Deter slugs use slug pellets. Minimize risk of bird damage use netting.





VEGETABLES



· Plant out Brussel Sprouts, summer and winter cabbage.



· Sow in pots sweet corn, runner beans, French beans, for planting out in June.



· Sow cucumber, marrow, and melons in gentle heat.



· Sow short rows of lettuce fortnightly.



· Transplant pencil thick leeks into final position.



· Control slugs and snails.








LAWN



· Edge lawn fortnightly (i.e. every two weeks), using long handled shears.



· Sow grass seed on newly prepared lawns.



· Mow when necessary, gradually bringing the height of cut lower.



· Best month for using a selective weed killer or lawn sand.



· Brush or rake to lift coarse grasses before mowing.





GARDEN



· Weed control by hoeing and spraying etc.



· Control slugs and snails.



· Mulch heathers.



· Encourage bushy growth on fuchsias by nipping out tips.



· Trim conifers and evergreen hedges.



· Put in supports for tall herbaceous perennials.



· Pinch out side shoots and tendrils from cordon grown sweet peas.



· Lift spring bedding and prepare for planting summer bedding. Bulbs can be used elsewhere



· Harden off bedding plants protect from frost.



· Plant up hanging baskets.



· Shade greenhouse structures.



· Prune Kerria, Forsythia and flowering currants



· Plant out Dahlia tubers in prepared plots



· Sow hardy annuals in situ



· Deadhead flowers of finished Rhododendron



· Spray roses for Black spot, mildew, aphids etc.

[The March Hare]

LAWNMOWER CARE



It's Spring, a beautiful day, the lawn is in desperate need of a cut and you cannot think of a good excuse not to mow the lawn. Out comes the lawnmower and it won't start, or it starts but you could cut off more with a pair of nail scissors. You have to spend all afternoon sorting it out, it's getting dark and the grass is still in need of a cut.

To prevent this, when Summer is over, before putting your lawnmower away for the winter, give it an all over clean and check up.

To prevent rusting whilst not in use, wipe all moving parts with a lightly oiled rag.

Check the condition of the blades and cutters, do they need sharpening, tightening or even replacing.

Examine electric mower cables for signs of any damage. Any visible signs of wear means these should be replaced immediately.

If you have a motor mower, drain the petrol and oil tanks and clean the spark plug. Fill oil tank with clean oil but leave the petrol tank empty (petrol deteriorates).

If these inspections reveal repairs or part replacements are required now is the time to do it. Left until Spring and you could have trouble getting it done.

Never leave a motor mower standing for months on a damp surface on in a damp place as this will inevitably make it difficult to start in Spring. Stand it on a piece of cardboard or a block of wood and keep the area as well ventilated as possible to avoid condensation.

ON THE OTHER HAND OF COURSE, IF YOU WOULD PREFER TO BE TINKERING WITH THE MOWER RATHER THAN CUTTING THE GRASS, DISREGARD ALL THE ABOVE.

SAFETY TIPS

Fill a petrol-fuelled mower outdoors and keep away from cigarettes or other heat sources. Wipe up any spills and replace petrol cap immediately and securing.

Do not turn petrol mower on its side to inspect underneath which will result in the petrol and/or oil leaking out.

If using an electric mower ensure it is fitted with a circuit breaker. This will prevent an nasty accident should it come into contact with moisture or the cable is damaged in any way.

Before mowing clear lawn of any foreign bodies (not the au pair) as these can be picked up and spun out by the blades causing accidents.

Never run mower over gravel.

Wear heavy shoes or boots when mowing. Avoid loose clothing, jewellery and sandals.

Tie long hair back.

Mow across a slope rather than up and down. You will have better control of the mower and will be less likely to fall towards the mower.

Turn the engine off when leaving it unattended, however quick you intend to be.

[The March Hare]

COMMON PESTS

When Summer arrives so do the 'creepy crawlies', presumably these differ depending on where you live, below are some common British ones and how they should be treated (my apologies to all animal lovers).

Garden Ants

These are attracted by sweet foods but are generally harmless.

If you can locate the ants' nest you can use an ant powder or spray which will do the trick.
If the nest cannot be found, see if you can identify where they are entering the house and the run they are using - it is amazing how they seem to use the same thin route. Place some powder or bait outside in this run. MAKE SURE IT IS OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN AND PETS.

If this is not possible try putting some water in an empty jam jar, make sure there is some jam on the edge of the jar and this may tempt some of them for a swim.

Apparently ants never cross a chalk line, so get out your chalk and draw a line wherever ants tend to march and see for yourself.

Bedbugs

These live in crevices, loose wallpaper, beds etc. and feed, at night, on human blood!

The best way to deal with these little monsters is to contact your local authority pest control.

Bees

These are not harmful unless provoked, trapped or you are unfortunately in their line of flight.

Best not to attempt to remove yourself, contact the experts, details of which can be found in libraries, local authorities etc.

If you have bees in a chimney, light a fire in the grate and this should remove them safely and harmlessly.

Some bumble bees are endangered species.

I

BookliceIf booklice are found in cupboards these can be eradicated by using a hair dryer on a hot setting.

These little devils feed on microscopic moulds found on the glue of bookbinding as well as damp surfaces and food.

Ventilate and dry any infested areas, obviously discarding any contaminated food.
The area can be treated with insecticides for 'Psocids', however, always read the instructions very carefully.

Carpet beetles

Mottled ladybird like pests. The Larvae, known as woolly bears, eat wool and damage natural fibres. They leave holes similar to that of moths.

Vacuum all fluff from cupboards, carpets etc., Spray mothproofer or carpet beetle killer between floorboards, under carpets and into any crevices. Remove any old birds' nests from the eaves and/or loft. Clean affected clothes, blankets etc.

Clothes moths

It is the larvae which are white with brown heads, that damage blankets, wool carpets, clothes etc. the adult moths do not harm at all.

Clean woollens and store in suitable bags. Spray fabrics/carpets with a mothproofer and put a repellent in wardrobes and cupboards.

thingyroaches

Like to live in moist, warm, dark places. They eat any sort of food but contaminate more than they actually eat and can, therefore, cause serious food poisoning.

If you can find the source and they are not too prevalent, a spray insecticide may do the trick. If the infestation persists call in the environmental health officer.

Home remedy - WARNING KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN AND PETS

Mix together 2 tablesthingys household borax, 1 tablesthingy flour and 1 1/2 teasthingys of cocoa powder. Put a small amount of the mixture in tiny unsealed containers e.g. bottle caps etc., and place where thingyroaches are known to congregate.

-

To make it easier to work with and to prevent spillage make into a ball of dough and let it dry out. The ball can then be sited under the refrigerator, oven, cupboards, shelves etc., and can be moved and replaced when cleaning.

This gentleman has also come up with a novel way to disguise this mixture - get a piece of hollow plastic fruit, cut a hole in the side and place the ball of dough inside - can then be put on a shelf etc. WARNING - this could be more attractive to children though so ensure it is well out of reach of tiny hands.

Fleas

These are commonly caught from cats and birds, with August/September being the worst months. Larvae are sometimes found in soft furnishings used by cats.

Wash cats' bedding and dust with flea powder. Clean throughout the house and spray with flea killer aerosol. Treat animals as instructed by Vet. Search for and remove any birds' nests in eaves and loft.





Flies

Carry and spread gastoenteric illness and food poisoning as well as being extremely irritating.

Keep food covered and bins scrupulously clean. Spray dustbins after emptying to kill eggs and maggots. The use of fly spray or impregnated strips can deter the flies but these can cause discomfort to people with respiratory problems.

Flour moths, beetles or weevils

Feed on flour, cereals, stored food, chocolate, dried fruit and nuts.

Clean out infested food. Clean and dry the area well. Storing supplies in closed, plastic containers can help.

Mice

Use fruit and nut chocolate for bait instead of cheese.

Bait can be placed in a milk bottle or similar jar, which should be place on a ramp (with the neck higher than the base). The mouse will then go in to feed but will not be able to get back out. The captured mouse can then be allowed to go free in a more suitable area (well away from the house).

Ensure any holes large enough to insert a ball pen in are filled, as mice can use these to enter the house.

When trying to catch mice, site traps horizontally around the edge of the room. This will then be effective whichever way the mouse runs.

If you don't know where the rodent is coming from, sprinkle flour on the floor around the area and it will then be evident from the footprints. A tray containing lard or solid fat can also do the trick.



Mosquitos, gnats and midges

Females feed on blood, biting mostly at dusk. Eggs are laid in stagnant water.

Clean out guttering, bird baths, water butts etc. as these are ideal breeding sites.
Door and windows can be screened and repellants can be used on skin.

Silverfish

These are harmless but their presence may indicate dampness. They feed on glue and starch in paper and bookbindings.

Eliminate damp by checking for leaky plumbing, condensation, rising damp etc. Insecticides for crawling insects will kill them.

Slugs and Snails

found the ultimate eco-friendly answer to slug and snail infestation in her garden, which is 100% safe for pets and garden wildlife. It is called SLUG-X and can be purchased online at .thetinpot.co.uk.

this innovative homemade remedy - she saves tuna fish cans and buries them so that the top is level with the ground, fills the can with beer and, apparently, the slugs crawl in, drink and die.

concerned that if the containers are placed level with the ground then not only will you kill slugs and snails but you will, at the same time, kill the beneficial beetles who may wander into the trap. This would be bad for your garden as well as for the environment.

Wasps

At their worst during August and September but die naturally by the end of Autumn.

Attracted by sweet food and drinks.

Stay still and they will soon go away. If you try to swat them this can cause their friends to come and help.

Trap with jars partly filled with water, jam and a drop of washing up liquid, covered with a punctured paper lid. Individual wasps can be destroyed by a proprietary wasp or fly killer.
Seek advice from environmental health department or pest control company before tackling wasp nests.

Woodlice

Woodlice like moisture and, therefore, if you sprinkle talcum powder around any infestation this should get rid of them.

Woodworm

This is the larvae of the common furniture beetle. They cause holes 2mm in diameter in the surface of wood and can cause structural damage in timbers and furniture.

Small infestations can be treated with two generous coats of woodworm killer. Furniture can be treated by injecting the fluid into some of the holes with an applicator. Large outbreaks should be treated by a pest control company

[juicyjude]

Think we'll all be busy with those tips won't we? ;D

[marmaris98]

i know i won't ha ha

[The March Hare]

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR HANGING BASKETS,

WINDOW BOXES AND CONTAINERS

Hanging baskets displayed in Garden Centres always seem to look perfect, the art of this is in the mix of both plants and colour, here are a few suggestions for the less experienced amongst us.

Pale pink Tulips with dark blue Grape Hyacinths.

Yellow and red Gazanias with white Marguerites.

Pink and white Sweet Williams with purple Heartsease.

White Geraniums, white Busy Lizzie and white trailing Lobelia.

Red Salvias, white trailing Lobelia and blue Campanulas.

Pink and mauve stocks (night scented), white "Chrysanthemum frutescens" and purple trailing "Maurandia".

Pink Petunias with blue "Campanula isophylla" and ivy.

Pink ivy leaved Geraniums with pale and dark blue trailing Lobelia.

Pink fuchsias, trailing blue Lobelia, and mixed "Begonia semperflorens".

Pink and yellow Antirrhinums with blue and white trailing Lobelia.

Dark red Geraniums with silvery Cineraria.

Pink Antirrhinums with white Alyssum and blue Lobelia.

For more information on how to plant window boxes click here

What can I put in that shady corner on the patio?

Primulas and Polyanthus are suitable for containers in partial shade, however, they need to be kept moist as they will not do well if allowed to dry out. They will provide a lovely display in winter and early spring.

Lilly of the Valley are shade lovers and quickly form clumps. In the U.K. the waxy, white bell-like flowers appear in April or May.

London Pride produces masses of small pink flowers in early Summer.

Buzy Lizzies are colourful, easy to grow and are ideal for hanging baskets or boxes that don't get much sun. The double varieties give even more colour.

Begonias will all tolerate partial shade. They are available in trailing and upright varieties in reds, yellows and purplish tones.

Many Foliage plants grow well in shady places. Ivy, ferns, and Hostas are always popular, but remember Hostas are also popular with slugs.

.

[jj]

Using Vinegar for GARDENING & YARD

1. Clay Pot Cleaning Remove white salt buildup on old clay pots by soaking them in full strength vinegar.

2. Kills grass. Undiluted vinegar will kill grass between bricks and
sidewalk cracks.

3. Kills weeds. Spray full strength on weeds - be careful not to
spray it on the surrounding grass as it will kill that too.

4. Deter Ants Spray vinegar around doors, appliances, and along
other areas where ants are known to gather.

5. Keep Cats Away Keep cats away. Sprinkle vinegar on areas you don't want the cat walking, sleeping, or scratching on.

6. Freshen Cut Flowers Add 2 tablesthingys vinegar and 1 teasthingy sugar for each quart of water.

[jj]

Notes on Hanging Baskets



Guardman manufacture a product called HI-LO (originally produced by Erin). It is connected between the hanging basket and bracket, allowing the hanging basket to be raised and lowered for ease of watering and tending plants.

To make watering hanging basket easier, Hozelock produce a hanging basket lance. Connected to your hose, this long metal pipe, with a curved neck, makes it easy to water hard to reach baskets.

If you have a number of hanging baskets to water, it might be worth investing in a micro-irrigation system. Gardena and Hozelock hava a range of micro-irrigation systems and products.

Hanging baskets and containers are particularly prone to drying out, causing the plant to wilt and dry.

Containers can be moved around the patio or garden as the plants come into flower and then fade.

Cover the drainage holes in containers with broken pots or largish stones, then a layer of course grit to deter slugs entering.

Cover the top of the soil with course grit to aid drainage and discourage slugs and snails. A layer of pebbles will prevent squirrels burying their food in your pots.

Large pots can be partially filled with polystyrene blocks or balls, this reduces the amount of compost needed and make it easier to move

Types of basket

Traditional wire baskets

Plastic-coated with chain attached, these need lining, but will last for years.

Linings

Moss - is lovely if available fresh, and if kept damp, retains its freshness. It also looks pleasingly natural, and allows easy planting through the base and sides of the basket.

•Black polythene liner - inside moss liner with holes pierced through: helps hold vital moisture ' while retaining a 'natural' effect.

•Polythene - alone with holes pierced: effective, but only looks good if plants grow over to camouflage.

•Papier mache - home-made, using a suitable mould, made from newspaper and flour and water or wallpaper paste (without fungicide).

•Biodegradeable liners - made from compressed fibres, and will last for 2 years or more. Holes need to be made in sides and base for trailing plants.

•Coconut-fibre matting liners - woolly-textured, natural-looking coconut fibre, reinforced with latex to prevent the basket drying out, and tough enough to last several seasons.

Plastic baskets

Complete with drip trays and plastic or wire hangers. These are simply plastic pots, in various colours, sizes and styles, readily available from garden centres and shops, and usually cheaper than wire baskets. There are some very small baskets (6" or so) in this type, which will dry out in minutes in hot breezy weather, and are probably best used for indoor displays. Plastic baskets can be 'softened' by ample planting with trailing specimens.

Macrame hangers

You could make your own knotted string twine hangers fairly easily, or they can be bought ready-made to hold any kind of pot or container. Macrame hangers can be used to present a wire hanging basket more decoratively for indoor or conservatory use. They are often combined with clay pots, allowing planting from the top only.

Ivy balls

Hanging ivy balls are a form of indoor (or small-scale outdoor) 'topiary' display. Use plastic-coated wire to make a suitably shaped base: a ball, cylinder, bird shape or initial. Completely fill the wire shape with sphagnum moss; then insert rooted ivy cuttings (both Hedera spp. and Rhoicissus spp., or Ficus pumila), fixing them into place with 'u' shaped pieces of plastic-coated wire. As the ivy grows, either weave the shoots through the netting, or tie them in with plastic-coated wire. Some pruning may be needed to encourage shoots to develop in the right directions. Spray the arrangement daily and give the moss a regular soaking - it should never be allowed to dry out. Add liquid fertilizer, during watering or as foliar feed, at fortnightly intervals while the ivy is actively growing.

Wall baskets

These also offer scope for presentation of trailing and pendulous plants - ideal in small spaces such as a backyard. Types range from the simplest plant pot which can be fitted into a pot 'gripper' and fastened to a wall or drain pipe, through to wrought iron basket styles, terracotta and stone pots of all kinds, plastic 'window box' types to rest on brackets, wire half-baskets and home-made planters.




Providing support for hanging and wall baskets

Firm fixing is vital to avoid disaster. When attaching wall baskets and brackets to solid walls, masonry nails or screws with the correct rawlplugs are essential. To suspend a basket from the ceiling, large screw-hooks are suitable, but only when the necessary support is provided by a joist or batten.

An accessible height will determine positioning. Eye-level or slightly above may be best. Another way to display a hanging basket for easy maintenance is to rest it on top of an old chimney pot or other strong support, rather than suspending it.

These 'gardens' need copious watering, feeding, and often dead-heading, so if you choose a position that is higher than eye-level (sitting or standing) a stepladder or even better, a pulley system of some sort may be necessary for access.

An old-fashioned washing-line pulley, firmly fixed to the wall, works well but there are several other gadgets on the market: the 'Hi-lo' attaches to a wall bracket and has a line which can be raised or lowered and locks into positions as required.

Composts for hanging baskets

The right choice of compost can be crucial to success, and has a direct effect on watering and feeding requirements. Compost with the ability to hold water without becoming waterlogged, and which allows free drainage, while having the ability to retain nutrients, is the ideal.

A heavy soil-based compost such as John Innes No. 2 or No. 3 is superb for plant growth, providing excellent nutrition and waterholding properties for plants that will be competing for food and moisture in a very confined space. Plants need less frequent feeding in this type of compost than in soil-less types, and this planting medium also dries out more slowly. It provides free drainage for plants such as geraniums, which prefer this.

Soil-based composts are not as clean to handle as soil-less ones; they are also heavier - which can be very awkward if the basket has to be regularly lowered and raised for watering. The most readily available (and cheapest) compost is soil-less. This type is perfectly adequate for most needs and relatively light, but does dry out rapidly. Baskets using this type of compost may need watering twice daily in very hot weather, and will certainly require feeding. Gels are available which can be mixed with growing mediums to improve moisture retaining qualities.


Feeding

A slow-release, granular, resin-coated fertiliser is ideal for hanging baskets e.g. Osmocote. This can provide nutrients for at least one season and up to 18 months depending on the formulation chosen. The product continually releases small quantities of nutrient in response to soil temperature and moisture content, in line with plant growth requirements. 'Plantpins' also offer a slow-release feeding option.

Watering

Bright sun and strong wind can be a lethal combination for all plants, but for a hanging garden the threat to well-being is serious. It therefore makes sense to avoid exposed windy sites when choosing a spot for your basket.

The following tips may solve some watering problems:

•Upright watering cans with short spouts can be heavy and awkward to lift and tilt when watering hanging baskets. A hose with an adjustable spray nozzle attached is much easier to use - especially when you have several baskets to water. Another idea is to use a lance on a pressure sprayer - which minimises lifting - but requires vigorous pumping.

•If your basket is fixed to a pulley system, it can simply be lowered and immersed in a bowl of water for a good soak. Drain the basket well before raising, and allow to drip onto newspaper.

•If dripping baskets are a problem choose a style with a built-in saucer; or, rather than applying water direct, use ice cubes, which soak the compost slowly without making it drip; otherwise, use the immersion method and allow to drain fully before raising.


Positioning

•Good circulation of air is needed, but not 'wind tunnel' conditions - this will cause battering. Draughts are a hazard.

•Proximity to fumes from heaters and boilers can cause problems.

•Light - choice of plants is important here - sun lovers will become leggy and miserable if relegated to a dark corner.


Maintenance

•Dead-heading: A simple but effective way to encourage and prolong flowering.

•Pests and diseases: As with all gardens, good cultural techniques promote good health - even more so in a confined space where plants compete fiercely for available resources. If plants are kept healthy and vigorous, pests and diseases will be less likely. Powdery mildew can be most prevalent in dry weather following a wet spell - even more so in periods of erratic watering. The prevention for this is easier than cure, so always maintain a regular watering regime.

•Aphids: Hot drying winds can favour aphid infestation for similar reasons to the above. Any fungicides and insecticides can be applied using hand-held sprayers. For those who prefer not to mix their own solution, there are a number of ready-mixed proprietary products in easily-held spray containers. When choosing a sprayer, try out different models to see which suits you best.


Planting techniques

•Have all necessary materials close to hand to begin with.

•Rest the basket firmly - on a bucket, or large pot - and at an appropriate height.

•Tools that may help with planting: (i) a wooden or plastic sthingy, perhaps with handle covered with pipe lagging for softer, easier grip; (ii) a lightweight narrow trowel.

•Consider the use of young pot-grown subjects with easy-to-handle, separate rootballs rather than those grown in a seed tray. This also minimises the risk of root damage during planting up.

•Choose robust plant material that will tolerate rough handling.

•To simplify plant choice and decision making - decide on only one or two plant varieties.

•Choose plants that will tolerate a degree of neglect if this is anticipated... alternatively, as a way of fostering a sense of responsibility in whoever will manage the baskets, choose plants that will reveal their needs quite obviously - by wilting, becoming leggy, flowering poorly, or not at all.

•Line with handfuls of moss, then black plastic - make slits in this to allow for side and base planting. Crocks may be placed in the base at this stage if you want to encourage free drainage.

•Firm compost into the basket: either fill almost completely, or plant and fill as you go, whatever seems easiest.

•Small trailing plants can be inserted through the base and sides of the basket so that their roots are firmly embedded, but the foliage is hanging outside.

•Place plants of upright habit in the centre of the basket with trailing plants around the outside.

•Either use young plants and leave space for them to attain maturity, or for an instantaneous effect, plant mature specimens more closely. In the case of seasonal baskets, overplanting will not be hazardous as the intended life span is relatively short.

•Give a really good soaking and leave somewhere cool for a few days to settle.

•Hang in final position.

[jj]

Plants
Outdoors


Winter/spring: pansies, ivies, miniature buIbs (snowdrops, narcissi, crocus, tulips, scilla), Polyanthus, Myosotis, Arabis, Aubretia and other spring-flowering trailing alpines.
Summer, sunny sites: 'Cascade' or other trailing geraniums. 'Cascade' Petunias like 'Resisto' strain (good in damp weather). Alyssum, Lobelia, L. tenvior is dark blue with white eye and trailing habit. Mignonette (scented), trailing Nasturtiums, e.g. N. 'Alaska', Tropaeolum canaries. Nepeta, Saxifraga spp., Dianthus deltoides, Verbena x hybrida (almost hardy), Calceolaria 'Sunshine', Chrysanthemum - the 'Charm' varieties, Matricaria, Thunbergia alata (black-eyed Susan), Ipomoea (morning glory), Lathyrus (sweet pea) try dwarf varieties such as 'Knee Hi', 'Snoopea' or 'Bijou', Helichrysum petiolatum - a furry-leaved trailer, Nemesia strumosa, Oxalis, Mesembryanthemum and Portulaca - love dry, sunny positions.

Summer, shady sites: Impatiens (F1 bedding varieties), trailing Viola spp, tuberous Begonias, Euphorbia myrsinites (perennial), Campanula isophylla, Fuchsia. Some types of dwarf Nicotiana, Coleus, Mimulus, Begonia semperflorens. Fern-like plants, Corydalis cheilanthifolia, Begonia sutherlandii (pendulous).

Edible plantings: Parsley, the more compact mint species, Thymes, Strawberries (alpine varieties are best), small round-rooted carrots, dwarf cherry tomatoes, dwarf climbing beans, 'Saladisi' mixtures, 'Saladbowl' lettuce.

Perennials/outdoors:
Alyssum saxatile, Vinca minor 'Variegata', Cerastium tomentosum (all fast growing & evergreen), Hedera spp; Euonymus fortunei.

Indoors
Winter: Zygocactus truncatus - Christmas cactus; Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant); Tradescantia/Hedera/Cissus/Rhoicissus; Tolmiea menziesii (piggyback plant Scindapsus aureus/S. pictus (dragon¹s ivy), Philodendron scandans (sweetheart ivy), any other trailing indoor foliage plants.

Summer: *Succulents, e.g. Rhipsalidopsis rosea 'Electra', Schlumbergera gaertneri, Echeveria, Sempervivum and Sedum spp; tuberous(trailing) *Begonia; ferns - Nephrolepis & Davallia spp, Asparagus plumosus, *Asparagus sprengeri, *Saxifraga stolonifera (mother of thousands). Columnea, Browallia, Episcia, Achimenes, *Jasminum polyanthum, Duchesnea, *Helxine, *Tolmiea, Plectranthus, Maranta, Hoya, *Setcreasea purpurea.

*Outdoors also, in sunny summer sites.

[marmaris98]

anyone know how to get the green off the yard

[The March Hare]

You can use a Water Jet,fungas remover or a solution of bleech in water leave for a while then lightly srub with a broom.

[marmaris98]

will the bleach be ok if it gets on the pots or will i move them to somewhere dry? bit of a daft question

[jj]

Don't think the bleach will do any harm as long as it doesn't get on the plants. ;)You can alo buy a cleaning solution for it, not sure how much it is though. I have found the best way is using a jetwasher, they are worth the money and are so powerful.

[The March Hare]

marmaris98 said:

will the bleach be ok if it gets on the pots or will i move them to somewhere dry? bit of a daft question

You will need to clean underneath anyway.

[marmaris98]

i borrowed my mams jet wash and it kept comming off the tap and the bloody bathroom was soaked

[juicyjude]

Yes and our Marc came over to jet wash his car and I said, "oh can you just give my car the once over" He did that allright, the b***** thing was that powerful it took some of the paint trim off as well. Words like bunny, happy, not, sprung to mind.